I did not know that. I’ll give it a look for sure.

I didn’t appreciated the FDroid UX until Google app designers lost their damn minds. Now it makes me feel relief.

it deletes it from my phone to clear space, keeping only the cloud backup

One copy of of anything isn’t a backup, it’s a move. Yes, in this case, Google is doing its own backups but you’re giving them all the trust and control.

Bangs are the reason I moved to DuckDuckGo after Neeva shut down

A few years ago they started to wrap them in black plastic to slow thefts. And they found it lead to them getting mistreated by shipping companies a lot more - and fewer working printers were ultimately making it to people.

I’ve seen speculation in the 3d printer community that when people see a foreign origin package that just squeaked under the import duty cost and wrapped in black they assume it’s something for some rich jerk and may treat the package accordingly. But when they see it’s a tool frequently used for regular folks to set up a side hustle, they’re nicer to it.

Assuming you’re talking about FDM/FFF printing and not SLA or sintering:

There’s a bit of a catch-22 when it comes to mating flat 3d printed surfaces: The face that’s on the build plate will be the flattest and result in the smallest seam. It’s also the face most likely to be dimensionally inaccurate because of elephant footing, which can result in a ridge at the seam. And the easy fix for having an elephant foot it adding a chamfer, which results in a big visible seam. So my actual advice is:

1. get your first layer super-duper dialed in
2. then make sure “elephant foot correction” (or whatever your slicer may call it) is turned off in your slicer (or it’ll add a 0.4mm chamfer for you)
3. make sure your mating faces are face down on the bed
4. avoid textured build plates if you can

And if aesthetics are a high priority consider using an automotive filler primer (I buy it in spray cans) and then painting the piece after it’s glued. Filler primer will help hide the seam and layer lines.

I dumped a cup of coffee in my laptop a month ago and was so bummed that it wasn’t for sale yet.

It’s not a solid mass of plastic around your hotend. That’s a small win at least.

Most of my PLA is Printed Solid Jesse. It’s $20/kg filament that prints like $30/kg filament.

Well, at least we can all rest assured that all the driver monitoring cameras/tech that’s being build by default into new consumer cars and trucks will only ever be used for safety.

The only thing that will stop climate change is if we reduce the beef industry and eat billionaires instead. Every billionaire will chop 0.1° off the warming trend.

Creality never made a printer that was worth the materials they were made out out. They just sold so many that there were still lots of people on the better side of QA bell curve.

And the old memes trend is that time the band did a bunch of coffee shop shows playing nothing but ukuleles.

This is at least the 4th official microsoft font I’ve been around for. What a time to be alive!

I’d say for people new to the hobby the best choices at $1000 (or a little under) are the Prusa MK4 and the Bamboo Lab P1S. The former say they’re focusing on quality (with speed as a side-effect) and user support, while the later is focused speed. The Prusa is also a little bit cheaper if you buy it as a kit. And building your own printer with Prusa’s excellent, constantly refined, instructions is a great way to really get to know your printer.

At the ~$500 level is the Creality K1 which I don’t know much about. Creality printers tend to be hit-or-miss though, and don’t expect support outside of other people on the internet.

Another printer you’ll hear about is the Voron, but that’s not really for beginners.

Congrats! This one came a day ahead of the original estimate. I wish you the same fortune.

I used to joke that if people didn’t eat the gummy bears per the instructions their first layer calibration would take 10 extra tries. Now that there’s no first layer calibration that won’t work.

It’s among several good options right now, we’ve entered a new era for fast, high quality home 3d printing. I got the MK4 because I’m already in the Prusa ecosystem, I expect (from experience) that this machine should just work for many years, and I know that if it doesn’t Prusa’s support is the much better than most companies at the price point. Additionally, I have some specific applications in mind that I think their “Nextruder” and load sensor will excel at.

That said, Prusa is trying to hurriedly catch up to recent competition and they have shipped a somewhat incomplete printer (at least in terms of firmware). If you want a full look at current state of the MK4 this Tom Sanladerer video is going to be better at it than I am.

My 3rd arrives on Thursday. You?

If everything can be contained on or in a lack, I’d say you’re a master of control.

Do your organizational efforts a favor an never join a filament of the month club.