The business strategy decisions behind CPU fab is really interesting over the past 15 years.

AMD made a budget clone of Intel two decades ago. Then Intel made a misstep and released Northwood Pentium 4. AMD used less power and was faster. And AMD decided to go with DDR memory, while Intel went RDRAM. Then AMD was king when they went AMDx86-64 for 64 bit and Intel went Itanium.

Then AMD made a huge miscalculation on the future of multicore computing and designed Bulldozer, while Intel got their shit together and went down the hyperthreading route and released CORE/Core2/Core2Duo chips. And Intel was king for a decade.

I don’t know the exact timing, but AMD needed cash and sold their fabs to raise money, which became TSMC GlobalFoundries, sorry. GF learned how to make stuff small since smartphones became a huge market. Then AMD let an engineer run the company and she invested in the Zen architecture, which could be made by GF with their lessons from the mobile world.

This is my take. By AMD turning GF loose, GF could date other people work on mobile projects, which helped them learn.

It’s a side note now, but Intel hung on to their fabs and lagged behind GF. AMD let their fab go and benefitted from it. EDIT: I had some facts wrong. It’s possible Intel fabs are ahead of GF.

As a side note, Intel did try fairly hard to get into mobile like GF. They had the Atom chips and went for tablet, Ultrabook, netbook, and mobile. I had an ASUS Android phone with an Intel SOC. So it’s not like they ignored mobile, but it didn’t benefit them as much as TSMC.

The typical cause of this is a biomarker sticks to one side of an embryo, marking it as left (or right, I don’t remember), but a twin embryo that is too close will see that marker on the other side and develop mirror imaged to the first embryo, right?

Look at Sovol or Anycubic in that price range. I don’t have direct experience with either. A good friend of mine had two Anycubics at one point last year and he said they were easier than his Creality.

My third printer, I paid $70 for, used (ender 3 pro return). It was missing several small components, one big part (top aluminum extrusion) that required some machining with a drill press, and had a bad thermistor.

I don’t think you can get a beginning printer for $100 unfortunately. Sovol and Anycubic make printers among the cheapest that are more beginner friendly (I think) than Ender, for roughly the same price. I have a friend with a Creality and an Anycubic Vyper, and the Vyper seems to be more beginner-friendly. I have two Crealitys and I love them, but both required a ton of modifications to become reliable.

Can you check your area for a local maker space? My local library has 3D printers for anyone under 18. Universities typically have a few of different technologies (SLS, SLA, FDM)

There are methodical ways of valuating a private (and public) company. Some are pessimistic and some are wildly optimistic. Your can legally use whichever one you want, only you must only use that valuation method for everything. It’s illegal to value the company low for taxes and high for loan collateral. And if you sell it, you can owe back taxes if your valuation was off (sale price is the new valuation).

This is overly-simplified US accounting rules (from finance class 10 years ago)

He took it private so, although there can be shares, they aren’t traded on the open market. So no positions to short.

If you have a filament runout sensor, the klipper default settings aren’t great. If the sensor activates, the printer shuts down after about an hour, losing your home position. With a part on the bed, you can’t re-home, so it’s a wasted print.

The mesh leveling isn’t automatic either. You might want to add either auto-load your default mesh leveling if you always use the same print surface, or put mesh leveling codes in the starting G-code section of your slicer.

I ran the pressure advance tuning and found that I needed a ton of pressure advance. My prints turned out much better.

I also got improvements by reducing the allowable deviation in the slicer (G-code files get much bigger, though), and I load files as STEP files directly in Prusaslicer. STL doesn’t have curves, it’s a series of planes. STEP files have geometric primitives and can have curves.

This looks like it would work with any E3D V6 heat break, right?

After CNC Kitchen’s review of the orbiter, I want to add one to my CR-10 V2. Its OEM heat break is an E3D V6 design.

In what way does dark matter interact with matter/light that people think it exists, is it gravitational?

3D Print General had one video where I recognized an AR-15 lower being printed in the background. The voice over was on the printer or filament (I forget).

Hoffman Tactical is still on YouTube. I was made aware of this channel when researching CF Nylon. HT has several promotional videos of his 80% printed AR rifle, and long discussions about which filament to use for which part of a rifle.

It’s very inconsistent.

The one thing I didn’t like about klipper firmware on my CR-10 was the default filament runout setup. One of my first big prints (with expensive ApolloX filament) ran out. The default klipper setup waits something like an hour, with the hot end still hot, then completely shuts down.

So my home position was lost, and with a partial part on the plate, there was no way of re-homing, so it was a wasted part.

Make sure your filament runout timeout is set to 24 hours (and I think I might have made the temp lower so it didn’t burn?)

I like klipper on mine, too. I do wish the default mesh would be loaded at startup, but it doesn’t load any mesh. Which doesn’t really matter, I guess. I have four build plates, three different styles, so I’m running bed levelling pretty much every print anyways.

Second this. If it’s PLA, improving layer cooling might help stiffen the last layer before the next is applied. If it’s not PLA, slowing the print down can reduce the horizontal forces for slower-cooling filaments like PETG/ABS. If there’s any warping or over extrusion leaving little blobs on the surface, your nozzle can bump into them, breaking cantilevered features like this one, or breaking the part off the build plate. Getting retraction to blob less or making sure no over-extrusion exists could help. If it’s PETG or Nylon, printing slightly wet (where the surface doesn’t look bad) can cause blobs on the top layer that the nozzle hits and causes those horizonal forces.

Drooping like this means something is too soft (speed up cooling on PLA, reduce print speed to give more cooling time and better layer adhesion for any material)

Prints like this aren’t impossible. I’ve printed a PETG storm drain that had vertical slots like this when I couldn’t buy one I needed. It turned out great but I had to print really slow.

My first PETG print was amazing. One of the best prints I ever did. Then I had 10 failures in a row. I went though 3 half rolls (kept changing them thinking it was cheap filament).

I had a CR-10v2 with the OEM bed springs. I stiffened them by adding a bunch of washers since it’s recommended to upgrade the OEM springs. Suddenly I had mostly good prints. I bought a filament dryer and started printing directly out of that. That solved most of the rest of my problems.

PETG is the “second easiest to print” because it can print below 250 and doesn’t need an enclosure, but that’s only part of the picture. It’s really picky with your first layer height, it doesn’t stick to itself very well with a layer fan on it, and it absorbs moisture (I live in a swamp, I have to print PETG out of a dryer).

I find ASA easier to print than PETG with most prints, with only a few warp-prone shapes where ASA is difficult. I try ASA first and keep more spools in hand than PETG.

I’ve got one now with a V6 knockoff hot end, steel PEI print bed, and running klipper firmware. It was backup printer, and now it’s the backup to the backup (purchased Comgrow $70 used Ender 3 pro).

I’d like to give this to a friend that’s interested in printing, but I’d have to flash back to stock firmware. The buttons and display don’t work with klipper, and I don’t have a spare raspberry pi.

It’s still relevant with the upgrades I made to it, except it’s still has really noisy steppers, and the build volume is so small it’s really limiting. I think the Prusa mini is still large enough to be practical. The monoprice is mostly relegated to toys.

I need some 18650 holders for a project which the mini can do great with, but I need a lot and printing them two or three at a time won’t cut it.

Even with moderate usage, no joke, I’d recommend getting a flammables cabinet to store IPA. At the end of every weekend, I drain our washing station back into two three liter jugs and put them in the flammables cabinet. I drain them while the washer is running to get the solid stuff out of the washer. They’re stored correctly, the cabinet prevents light from reaching the jugs, and the solids settle to the bottom of the jugs over the weekend. On Monday I carefully pour the top portion into the auto washer and top it off with new IPA. The settled layer gets poured into the waste container.

We have two printers at work, one wash station and one cure station. And we have 8x jugs of IPA in our flammables cabinet.

Before we started settling in the cabinet and decanting our wash solution, we went through an incredible amount of IPA that we had to deal with as waste. And this is from two SLA printers, which we use in addition to our Prusa MK3 and SLS nylon printers, so we don’t always use the resin printers.

Because it’s the harder skill, IMO. People find out I can print and start asking for really custom stuff, like all I have to do is picture it in my head and it will print.

I can draw a little in CAD, because that’s part of my day job. But I don’t know how to make a model of Mario dabbing.

Happened before. I can’t find the story though. I think it was someone who showed up in Europe claiming to be a government official for a South American country. They commissioned printers to make a lot of currency notes. They vanished and it was discovered they weren’t part of this countries’ government.

Most US counterfeit US Bank Notes are printed in Colombia these days.

Thanks for the link.

It wasn’t an issue with my monoprice, so I might have skipped over some warnings. Then I didn’t read up on all of klipper documentation because I was familiar with it. Maybe I’m warning others about something that’s in the documentation anyways.

The stupid thing is that I’ve had this happen with my Ender 3 Pro when hooked up to pronterface. I had forgotten it had happened.

My company blocks lemmy.zip on WiFi, but lets lemmy.world through. So I tried to be on something other than lemmy.world, but still use it about half the time.

I’ve used formlabs printers at work. They are great, but using them has persuaded me to not purchase my own. Most prints, I use three pair of disposable gloves. That resin and the IPA wash (which has a lot of dissolved resin) make really annoying messes. We’ve already lost one Form Wash due to people being careless and leaving the lid up. The IPA with resin will set over time.

You can’t pour the stuff down the drain. One user tried putting really contaminated IPA in a tray and sticking it in our chemical hood to dissolve (while myself or the lab manager wasn’t there to stop him). We had a surprise safety audit like we do on occasion and were cited for leaving this huge batch of flammable material out in the open.

We ended up getting a dedicated flammable cabinet for resin IPA. At the end of the week, I’ll turn on the Form Wash and let it stir the wash IPA for a few minutes. While it’s still stirring, I transfer it to a couple of three liter jugs and place them in the flammables cabinet. It sits for a couple of days and a lot of solids settle to the bottom of the container. Then the top 80%-90% of the IPA is carefully poured back into the wash chamber without stirring up sediment on the bottom. Fresh IPA is used to top off the wash. The cloudy wash in the bottom of the jug is poured into yet another jug. Once that jug is full, it sits for a week to settle in the flammables cabinet. We can usually capture the top 10% and pour it (through a filter) back into our main wash solution, the rest is capped and left exposed to light for several days/weeks to set, and then is disposed of in our hazardous waste.

Even with all of this settling to keep our wash solution as clean as we can, eventually, it will become too contaminated to use (formlabs recommends changing the liquid at a particular density).

It’s a messy process and people still get gloves damp and touch the cure station and get resin prints everywhere. We leave IPA wipes on the counter and go though a pack of those every two weeks trying to keep the resin print area clean. I like the print quality and ease of getting a print. But after using the one at work, I decided not to get one at home.