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Joined 2 years ago
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Cake day: June 1st, 2023

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  • Lol I spent a week going back and forth with Revolut support in august. I could sign into the app but it would always ask me for a “selfie” verification and every time support would say its a super dark selfie.

    Eventually I decided to try a stock ROM and it just worked and I realised what was happening so I transferred all of my money out and deleted my account.

    Most local banks here are terrible at making apps, some even require a separate device that looks like a calculator to use online banking, so hopefully they wont follow suit anytime soon




  • What do you mean they’re failing to install? That sounds like a wine issue.

    Sometimes games just work better on previous wine versions so it might be worth trying a couple of those.

    I haven’t played the game but it seems to be DX11 so DXVK probably needs to be installed to the prefix

    Towards the end of the FG installer, there is usually an option to download the dependencies so make sure you have those installed with winetricks to the correct prefix. C++ Redist download option here refers to vcrun in winetricks and its probably vcrun2022 since the game is new.

    Is it defaulting to using your integrated graphics instead of the discreet gpu?

    You could also add it as a non steam game in steam since proton will be set up properly to see if it runs better.

    Edit:

    470

    Do you need to update your drivers? 470 came out in April 2021. DXVK only supports 510 and later so d3dcompiler instead of dxvk should be used but a driver update would be better.


  • 2 accounts consistently reporting the same IP, location and user habits etc being linked is more absurd than nobody ever noticing excessive uploaded data from their phones? It is very easy to monitor the amount of uploaded and downloaded data on a device, lots of people would have noticed by now. The amount of storage, bandwidth and processing power that would be required to monitor the audio from hundreds of millions of android users globally 24/7 would make this the dumbest business decision ever when there are so many easier and efficient ways to track users.



  • I’m a big fan of AV1, I’ve reencoded TiBs of video files to AV1. Reencoding is always going to lead to some quality loss, it just depends how much you notice it. For me I, don’t see any quality loss going from h265 to AV1 in any videos I have done with my settings. But the biggest screen I use is 32inch 1080 monitor from about 5 years ago.

    Its totally subjective so it may be worth taking a couple of your favourite video files and testing out a bunch of different settings and comparing the quality to see if theres a noticeable quality loss. Then you can weigh up the quality vs time taken vs storage cost to see if its worth it to you.

    It can be slow, depending on what hardware you’re working with but I’ve seen massive speed improvements over the past few months. ATM, I’m getting between 10 - 20 times speed up. So if I encode a 10 minute video, it takes between 30-60 seconds. This is with a 7700x, 12 cores. And I’m getting anywhere from ~10 times smaller file size to ~70% the original size.

    Another option I use sometimes is converting to 720p from 1080. I do this on some videos that my parents take because their cameras aren’t great and they have shaky hands so they’re pretty blurry at the best of times anyway lol.


  • Just tar and zstd. They’re probably installed by default for most distros anyway.

    I think this is what I used when I first tried out zstd https://linuxconfig.org/how-to-install-and-use-zstd-compression-tool-on-linux

    Tar supports input from zstd so I put everything on one line.

    tar -I 'zstd -v --ultra -22' -cvf YourFile.tar.zst -C /path/to/your/file YourFile
    

    -I takes the input from zstd which is in quotes.

    –ultra it should be redundant but for some reason its needed for higher levels of compression.

    -22 the highest level of compression offered by zstd.

    -c for compress.

    -v for verbose.

    -f for the file name.

    -C excludes the absolute path to the file/directory and just takes YourFile as the file/directory to compress. Its not needed if you’re in the same directory as YourFile.

    I would recommend leaving out

    --ultra -22
    

    and just test how much compression you get with the default level first because 22 is super slow and if it just can’t compress the file you won’t see any difference in file size compared to the default compression level.


  • For 3DS games I use NDSTokyoTrim to remove useless data from the game files to make them smaller.

    DreamCast, PS1 & PS2 games get compressed to chd with chdman.

    GameCube and Wii are compressed to rvz with Dolphin.

    PS3 I remove the PS3_UPDATE folder, 256MiB for each game adds up. I also use Gnarly Repacks for PS3 games since they have better compression than anything I’ve tried so far.

    Switch games, I use nsz.

    Then I use tar with zst on all of them, Nsz and rvz already use zst so theres no change but I just like to keep everything the same accross all of my roms and pc games.

    Everything else, GB, NDS, SNES etc all get archived and compressed with tar and zst. For these I’ll also use the --ultra -22 option since they’re small enough files anyway so they don’t take long to compress/decompress. If anyone knows any specific compression/trimming methods that are better than zst, I’d love to hear about them!

    Copies of all the tar archives are kept on 2 separate drives and a copy of the games are on my PC in whatever the smallest format is that is compatible with their emulator.