If you’re on Android, then Firefox can indeed have uBlock Origin there too

It seems to me that any legislation could easily carve out an exemption for any special editions, only applying to the “regular” version.

As a small follow up, new research seems to suggest that current EV batteries might last 40% longer than any predictions have expected, due to the real-world use of them causing very different wear on them than the heavy duty testing in labiratories:

https://lemm.ee/post/49902192

The DuckDuckGo search engine gets it’s results from the Bing search engine

Encryption is really really hard, and avoiding some form of sidechannel attack is much much harder.

Sure key exchange also isn’t trivial, but I would say that key exchange is significantly easier. Care to elaborate?

RSA doesn’t scale, so if the message is large then RSA becomes unwieldy. So most encryption methods that make use of RSA actually encrypt the data with a symmetric algorithm, and then just encrypt the key for the symmetric data using the RSA key.

But there is still way way way too many ways to implement crypto wrong, which can completely compromise the security of it.

Battery degradation is certainly a very valid question to ask. This isn’t leasing or renting, I got a loan at the bank, and purchased the car. So yeah, battery degradation is an issue, however to me battery degradation basically means that I would just have to charge more often.

All current figures I can find mention degradation between 0.5% and 3% per year. Taking the worst case of 3% and compounding it over 10 years, means my 77,4 kWh battery turns into a 57 kWh battery, that is a total of 73% of the original capacity, at 20 years this reduces to 54% of original capacity. At present I only use around 20-40% of my battery on an average day, which would mean that I would still be able to fulfill my daily driving needs. In the best case of 0.5% degradation, the total capacity would only have decreased to 73,6 kWh, 95% of the original capacity, or 90% after 20 years. The warranty on the battery ensures that the battery can’t lose more than 30% of its original capacity in the first 10 years, so it seems reasonable to think that Hyundai isn’t expecting the degradation to exceed 3%, and they likely have built in a good bit of margin into that warranty, as they obviously don’t want you to replace your battery free of charge.

It’s very important to understand what causes most of the battery degradation, though.

The main killer of batteries is heat. If the thermals of your battery isn’t managed well by the car your battery will degrade much much faster. This is why laptops and cellphone batteries don’t last very long. Most modern EVs has liquid cooling loops that keep the battery at the correct temperatures, both when driving and when charging. Many of the early EVs didn’t have this, and suffered for it. So many of the statistics about battery degradation are from the earlier EVs which didn’t manage temperatures well.

Charging to 100% wears the battery much more than charging to 80%, which in turn also wears more than charging to 70%. Depleting the battery and then charging to 80% again and again wears your battery more than staying between 40%-70%. Even better if you can keep your battery at a lower state of charge constantly, but that obviously means you have less range at your disposal. Charging faster also causes more wear. So with the right behaviour you can reduce your battery wear quite significantly. I have set my car up to only charge to 70% for normal days, and only increase the limit when I know I’m going on a long trip. I also almost exclusively charge at home, which means a nice and slow charge rate during the night when the outdoor temperatures are low. I only use more than 40% of the capacity between charges on very rare occasions.

My Ford Fiesta was 8 years when I sold it, and at 10 years it’s timing belt should be changed. Something that would cost about 1/3 of the market value of the car… And if the belt decides to give up before then, then I would have been looking at rebuilding the whole engine, which could easily be as expensive as the whole market value of the car. Besides that, there’s all the other bits in a combustion vehicle that needs maintenance, such as spark plugs, oil changes, transmissions, clutches, cylinder head gaskets, exhausts wearing trough. Even brake pads last longer as most of the braking is done by regenerative braking. EVs does however need the battery coolant changed, and does wear the tires quicker.

In the end battery degradation is a gamble that I have chosen to take. I personally think the benefits outweigh the risks, and even at 54% capacity after 20 years, the car would still be useful to me. I do however understand that this doesn’t work for everyone, and many others won’t be willing to take the same risk.

I wasn’t aware that both the VW and Renault wasn’t available in the US… That sucks. But yeah, the MSRP for EVs are generally quite a bit higher, but that goes for pretty much every size of car, but that is only a tiny bit of the whole picture. I also didn’t know the price disparity was that big in the US for the Mazda and Volvo… But when you are looking at EVs you really need to look at the service and fuel/electricity costs too.

I live in Denmark, so obviously my experience will be very different. I recently switched from a Ford Fiesta 2016 (5-door hatchback, gasoline, medium-high trim) to a Hyundai Ioniq 5 (fully electric, crossover SUV, top trim), and I drive about 30,000 km per year (~ 18600 miles). And when you factor in the cost of the car loan, the service subscription, the insurance, and fuel costs, then the much larger, and much more luxurious Hyundai Ioniq 5 comes out to costing me about the same per month.

I did all the math before we bought the Ioniq 5, but unfortunately don’t have all the numbers handy anymore. But the main factors are the MSRP cost and the fuel costs

Ford Fiesta 1.0 100 hp Titanium Fun (2016):

• Price 160,000 DKK (~ $22,690), Loan came out to 1790 DKK per month (~ $254)
• Gas costs per month ~ 2,200 DKK (~ $312)
• Sum per month 3,990 DKK (~ $565)

Hyundai Ioniq 5 Long Range Ultimate (2023):

• Price 405,000 DKK (~ $57,434), Loan comes out to 3559 DKK per month (~ $505)
• Electricity costs per month ~ 400 DKK (~ $57)
• Sum per month 3,959 DKK (~ $562)

So even though the cost was 2.5 times higher, it was about the same to own and drive. I have no idea how that math works out with gas and electricity prices in the US.

Damn, I didn’t know that Renault wasn’t in the US market…

• Renault Megane E-tech Electric
• VW ID.3
• Volvo EX30

And there’s quite a lot more brands with EVs in that size bracket coming out in the near future

Mittens take away too much dexterity for many things. But a 3-finger glove is the perfect compromise: https://www.snowsportprofessionals.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/8272aca90cb09ec2c85ef324e10933f57f500daf.jpg

Since all of these politicians are at the same time ensuring that they are above the law, I don’t think you can count on getting them arrested.

Yes, but Google would not have done that if nobody used Firefox

This is a useless comment… This issue has nothing to do with the brand of printer you bought, and everything to do with the settings of your printer and whether the filament is wet. A well tuned Ender will print better than a much more expensive badly configured printe with wet filament. Of course there are printers now that are much easier to get good results with, especially because they come with build in filament dryers, and automatic tuning.

Dunning-Kruger is a hell of a drug…

The author of the article is clearly just confusing “encryption”, “cryptography” and “hashing”. Reading the full article makes it clear that the intention was to salt and hash the passwords, not encrypting them.

The OP made the argument that Zuckerberg wanted to know their passwords, such that if the users reused the same passwords elsewhere, then he would be able to log in there and check out their accounts.

For example he could have seen a profile he was interested in, nabbed their password and looked into their email.

Not that he wouldn’t have godmode on their Facebook account, and needed their password to access their account, because of course he could have just accessed those accounts without needing the password.

I have not heard this rumor before, though I wouldn’t be completely surprised if it was true.

Agree on both parts, but the second part can still be achieved from an unconnected car, you just can’t do it remotely

IPv6 does not require you to open your machine to the Internet, even without making use of a NAT. Sure you get an IP that’s valid on the whole internet, but that doesn’t mean that anyone can send you traffic.

Are these restrictions set out by the ISP or the dorm?

If you don’t do business with the ISP, then you don’t have to agree to and follow their terms.

So as long as the dorms doesn’t have rules against setting up your own WiFi, then you should be well within your rights to purchase an Internet connection from another provider, but since you are likely not allowed to get your own line installed, you are probably restricted to ISPs that provide a service over the cellular network.

Of course using a cellular connection will give you worse latencies for online games, but at least you can have your own WiFi with low latency for your VR.

If you want to be nice, you could then run as much of your Internet network over ethernet as possible, so you congest the air waves as little as possible, possibly only running the VR headset over WiFi, and maybe even only enabling the WiFi radio when you want to play VR. If all your WiFi devices support 5GHz, you might also completely disable your 2.4GHz WiFi, to leave the most congested frequencies alone.

To lower the chance of someone complaining about your WiFi, you should configure it as a “hidden network”, such that it doesn’t broadcast an SSID, and therefore doesn’t show up when people are looking for WiFi networks to connect to.