Eh, your account is still tied to an instance. That instance stores your subscriptions, as well as the vast majority of your preferences. If you want to get way into the weeds, that’s why Jerboa won’t persist comment sort order, but other clients will - there is a server side prefer for all/local/subscribed and new/hot/best at a post level, but not at a comment level.
The Frontier’s Q3 sales of ~16k were outpaces by the Ranger (21k) Colorado 29k), Maverick (45k), and Tacoma (57k). It did outsell the Ridgeline (13k) and Canyon (10k).
I know there are ebs and flows as models change over, but I don’t think either Nissan truck has ever been close to the front of the pack.
It also makes it easy to find all your subscriptions in one place. When every provider tries to get you to subscribe, hunting them all down becomes a pain.
I share your curiosity, but I don’t have a ton of time to dig into this right now beyond the thought experiment. That’s the reason for my slower responses :( Work is busy and the kids eat up most of free time.
You’re right - the seal will directly impact bass. This is why the sound on some headphones will change fairly dramatically as you move your head around - you’re breaking the seal. For me, the head position most likely to break the seal is turning my neck fully in one direction and looking up, but it can also happen with less extreme head motions depending on the cans. I could see volume also playing a role, since the air volume inside the pad is effectively a resonator and changes in air volume will impact how it resonates. I suspect the material of the cup itself will also play a role. Something dense/reflective, like leather, will likely sound somewhat different than say a suede or a microfiber. That was one reason why I was considering gyroid - it would be reasonably non-reflective.
After measuring my ear and looking at the CAD and print, my first prototype adds enough fore to aft clearance around my ear. It added around 3mm of extra depth. This clears my ear depth by about 1.7mm too far and is primarily from designing in a stiffer material than the original pad. The original pad touches my ear in several places which gets hot and annoying, especially in the summer.
Sounds like a similar motivator to my “I wish these didn’t press on my glasses frames so hard” ;)
A pop-tube seems like it would be hard to print vertically oriented. I suspect it would move around some as you’re printing thanks to not being very rigid. It wouldn’t hurt to try it. Printing it sliced down the center and laying across the bed horizontally seems like it would be easier. I certainly hear you on the joys of TPU stringing, but if it’s limited to the far ends of the print it shouldn’t be too horrible to clean up. You could even design it a touch too long and cut the ends off.
Anyways, if I introduce this disconnected level of complexity to my next iteration, I can likely also add something like a recess for glasses too. I have the same issue with my reading glasses and just use ear buds instead when I need them.
Depending on the spacing of the tube crinkles, you might be able to line them up so your frames fit between them. You could also probably make one crinkle stick out a little less and line that up with your frames.
not that you should wait or anything like that.
At this point, I have nothing but time. I’m also trying out a pair of ‘real’ ANC headphones, vs my office drone headset that happens to have defeatable ANC. They have ridiculously sized pads and they’re actually pretty comfortable with glasses. I am somewhat tempted to type out a mini-review somewhere here, but have no idea where I would post it.
I appreciate the detailed reply! You’ve certainly spent more time thinking about this than me.
My train of thought so far has been, “I wonder if I could partially notch my ear pads to fit my glasses better” -> “I could probably print something out of TPU” -> “I’ve seen gyroid only prints with no walls, varying the infill density could be a halfway decent method for messing with how squishy the print will be and without walls air shouldn’t be trapped”
On my headphones, the pads snap into the headphones:
My stock pads are starting to fall apart and I have a pair of replacements on the way, so I am considering disassembling them for their rings and clips and gluing the print to that.
And you’re right! While I was looking for replacements, I discovered that the stock units are functionally compatible with a bunch of other units although the finish materials are different.
All I was trying to say is that there are already homes that do not rely on combustion inside the house for heat. I then took it the next step further, lol.
This is indeed the source of the extra filament. I’m just wary of suggesting you pull the filament too far up, which could take it out of the melt zone and cause a clog trying to get it back in.
If OP isn’t having stringing issues and wants to try this, they could add a smidge of retraction in the print end section of their slicer.
Electric stovrs and heat, in the form of heat pumps and traditional resistive, are a thing. Arguably you’re using magic to pipe a remote fire from a power plant or the sun into your house, so you can heat your house and cook without fire in your house. Bonus points if you use hydro and/or wind for power generation, then there’s turely zero fire involved.
Welcome!
To answer your question, what’s happening is that filament in the meltzone of the nozzle is melting and oozing out after the nozzle reaches temp. It will stop oozing once the tiny bit of filament in the meltzone melts and subsequently oozes out.
I am not a Bambu user, but if you can preheat the nozzle earlier relative to its wipe you should be golden. It looks like they don’t use Klipper, which means your slicer is probably controlling the order of things. Look at the print start gcode and have it heat the nozzle earlier. If you find whatever it has and copy/paste it here I, or someone else, will tell you what to move.
Happy printing!
Oh, I see where you’re coming from - you want to print a straight line than you can bend. I was thinking to completely 3D print the pad and remove/replace the stock units. This would let me print them as an oval.
If you swapped hot ends I suggest printing a temp tower. When I went from a PTFE tube to a microswiss hot end on my i3 clone I remember having print one and change my extruder temp. Granted, thi was 5+ years ago…
I was thinking about doing this purely with a slicer and infill density. If it needs a solid layer or two for some reason you could leave top/bottom layers as non-zero.
Even if you’re not a great coder right now, building stuff will pay off in the long run. Even if you don’t wind up writing code as your primary source of revenue, being able to manipulate data via something like Python is an invaluable skill.
I have multiple friends who cut lawns as kids who built that into a landscaping business by the time they were teenagers. I don’t know if I would want to do that as an adult, but when you’re young the money can be pretty good.
If it’s new and getting worse, I would check for loose screws first. Especially if it happened out of nowhere. It never hurts to check belt tension. You don’t want too loose, but you also don’t want too tight so don’t just tighten them.
If this has always been present in your prints then congrats, you have ringing! You can decrease it by lowering acceleration/jerk/square corner velocity. If you want to get fancy, ringing can also be combatted with input shaping. Klipper makes this easier than Marlin, but it is possible to do on Marlin printers too.
This is very cool! Wear glasses and have been tempted to make my own TPU ear pads with some notches to better accommodate my glasses frames. That will obviously nerf the seal some, but it sound be a low cost reversible thing I can try and revert if I don’t like it.
I was considering printing them with no walls and varying amounts of gyroid infill to get the right amount of squish.
Be sure to post a follow up and impressions once you’ve used them for a little while.
You are likely eating food that is packaged in PLA and PET
“But I only eat canned food!” Canned food containers are plastic lined, but don’t worry - we’ve moved from BPA linings to less studied linings that are totally safer in the long run
“Paper cups and containers!” If it’s touching something wet, odds are they have a plastic lining
“But I drink soda/beers out of metal cans!” Oh, hum
“Glass containers!!” Many have plastic on the metal lids
Etc etc. If you eat out you’re eating tons of food that was heated and/or kept warm in some kind of plastic liner.
There are some interesting philosophical ideas going on with some of the apps too. For example, Jerboa won’t implement client side storage of this preference because they think it should be stored on the server side.
That looks kind a very nicely designed model!
I suggest a much smaller TPU print with supports so you can get a feel for post processing needs. If you print the part well the only way to remove them is with a knife or snips.
I take it you live somewhere that’s fairly sunny year round? We had a visit from a door to door solar salesperson stop be recently, so I dug in a little. We get a little over 6 peek solar hours in the summer, but come winter we’re down to around 2. Our energy use last month was about 25 kwh/day. There’s basically no chance of us generating all of that :( Add in a third of that being my plugin Volt, which charges at night, and it’s really not looking good for generating all our own power.