DEAD ACCOUNT. Lemmy.one does not have active administration and I need to move on. Catch me over at dbzer0: https://lemmy.dbzer0.com/u/empireOfLove2

Yet another Reddit refugee from the great 3rd party app purge of 2023. Obligatory fuck /u/Spez.

  • 4 Posts
  • 212 Comments
Joined 2 years ago
cake
Cake day: June 6th, 2023

help-circle


  • I’ve almost always used PrusaSlicer just because the only printers I had access to were mk3s+.

    I’ve started playing with Cura though because A. i wanted some more complex prints that PrusaSlicer struggled to support, and B. We also got some creality cr-30’s functional at my college again. So far I still feel Prusa is easier but that’s likely just familiarity.









  • Sure, but on these fully DC printers all the power control hardware is integrated into the main board and supplied from a single main power rail. You’d have to basically build a separate power control board with that would allow you to isolate those MOSFET’s on their own power rail and then jump the PWM control signal over to it from the main board. Decent amount of electronics knowledge and skill required to pull that off.



  • Layer adhesion almost always means plastic is extruding too cold. Especially if the adhesion problems are happening on layers off the build plate. Keep bumping the temp and maybe use less part cooling fan- you can’t really make it worse at this point.

    Hardened steel nozzles do not conduct heat nearly as well as typical brass nozzles. (The thermal conductivity of steel is around 40w/m-K for high alloys, while for brass it is 110w/m-K). It cannot heat the plastic up nearly as fast.

    I usually start at 210C for PLA on my Prusa mk3’s with a brass nozzle, and will back down to 200/205 if there’s more overhangs or too much stringing. But on the printer set up with a steel nozzle I ended up around 225C to get results comparable to 210 on the brass nozzle.






  • 2.5 is still really new in the networking space and nobody has hit economies of scale yet. I very much also want to build out my home LAN to be entirely 2.5g compatible since 1g is limiting for my NAS use case (video storage), 10g is overkill and not supported by my client devices, and I only need 16/24 ports. but good God the hardware just isn’t reasonable yet.

    You pretty much have to bite the bullet if you really want 2.5 right now. What might honestly be worthwhile is finding a used enterprise 1g switch with the number of ports you need, and will still be “enough”, as those can be had for only a couple hundred dollars. Sit on that for 2-3 years until the 2.5g and 5g hardware market starts to fill out and you can decide how badly you need 2.5g then


  • empireOfLove@lemmy.onetoSelfhosted@lemmy.worldEnterprise SSD?
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    15
    ·
    edit-2
    1 year ago

    Really. Anything branded from Samsung or Crucial(Micron) is going to be fine. They are the top producers of NAND, produce high quality products, and stand behind warranties. But you are gonna pay out the nose for the privilege of enterprise grade hardware.

    You might just be buying lower quality consumer SSD’s though, since even they should be able to handle a surprising amount of abuse.