Are you planning to regularly print large items? Around that price range could get you a formbot v0.2 kit with printed parts. It’s core xy and open source if that matters to you. Print size is 120x120x120 which is small for sure, but in my experience, most of the stuff I print falls in that range (I have a 350mm v2.4 and a mk3s I’ve rarely filled the build plate on either, I’d love a few small printers for quick test prints). It’s also enclosed, can put a Nevermore Micro in it for fumes, and it’s designed to be able to print abs. Supposed to be able to print all the parts for larger vorons on it too if you ever do wish to go larger.

My first printer was a MendelMax 2 kit that I had to sell unfortunately due to a move and not wanting to ship a glass bed cross country. I personally like a kit for a first build, while I get that people don’t vibe with tinkering or maintenance, you’ll learn a lot and you can tweak it to your liking.

You could source from a Canadian vendor (assuming you’re Canadian based on your instance), I’ve sourced a lot from Spool3D in Calgary but will cost you more than the formbot kit. Definitely recommend them for future needs. 3D labtech carries a lot of mods, had great experiences with both of them.

Prusa’s first layer calibration in the past would do a long line across the plate to give you time to adjust, I personally just use a piece of paper or feeler gauge (have a tap probe) to set my offset and then run with it. Auto levelling and meshing work extremely well in my experience, if you have something adjustable imo you’re best doing that offline anyhow, the nozzle to surface distance is what matters, you don’t need to push plastic to measure that, in fact I wouldn’t even attempt to do that until I was confident in my measured offsets, tool crashes suck and super close scraped on plastic sucks to remove from a surface.

Absolutely! Sorry my bad, first thing I did for my prusa enclosure was create recirc filter and did the same thing with my voron so my brain just assumed it was standard practice

Assuming heat creep. Pla’s transition temp is like, in the low 50s +/- a few deg c if I recall, it goes wet noodle and can easily cause jams, absolute pain in my ass doing a bunch of pla prints in the summer on my mk3s inside a prusa enclosure, ended up setting the plate to something like 30c, had issues even with the 140mm exhaust fan on to try dropping the chamber temp. I rarely print pla in my voron, it’s basically hot bed set very low and relying on my print surface to keep the print anchored when I do. Not had issues with petg in an enclosure, personally would recommend using an enclosure for all prints anyhow, even pla gives off some nasties as far as I recall.

I personally prefer abs to either petg or pla for general use, I keep all on hand as there’s not a filament best for all use cases.

Edit: Assuming you have an enclosure filter. I highly recommend something like the nevermore (use a stealthmax on my voron). I do also keep my printers outside of my home, which I know not everyone can do. If I had them inside, I’d set up something to vent the room outside as well as having enclosure filters, some filaments are worse than others, Nevermore includes citations to a bunch of relevant studies regarding air pollution while printing

Go with something like FiiO’s excellent line of Bluetooth/USB-C DACs,

btr7, btr5, btr3k. They support high fidelity Bluetooth codecs, but the USB-c option is really nice, I’ve had a btr3k for years and it’s an easy recommend. FiiO in general do really nice audio products for the price in my experience.

I’d still like to have a 3.5mm jack on my phone though and a decent internal DAC, give me an option, use something external to drive higher impedance stuff if I want.

Like the idea, be great if you had something like miniDSP ears to test with. Would denser infill help the sound? Pads are massive in terms of sound, I put the wrong pads on my dt880s in the past and they sounded like straight garbage, be worth trying to replicate the same sort of density/sealing of your existing pads.

I had a Microsoft Encarta on a cd that I used for projects when I was young, Wikipedia launched midway through my grade 5 and by grade 6 I was using it for research (despite the “you can’t trust Wikipedia, anyone can edit it!” that was still a thing into grade 12 from my teachers) for any school project. My parents also had a copy of the Oxford’s Canadian English dictionary that was an absolute time, used that a heck of a lot too.

I use Wikipedia as a jumping off point, good to get information, get the details from citations. I wasn’t old enough to do complex work pretty wikipedia, but I’d imagine it’d be the same thing, encyclopaedia to lookup a topic, dive into reference materials for details from there.

General recommendation for spool3d, they may be on otherside of the country but they have a solid selection, fast fulfillment, and some really nice house brand filament, more or less buy everything parts wise from them and 3D Lab tech.

Edit: Matter3D have some great black friday sales on right now too, filament manufacturer in BC, really like their filament, particularly their abs, free shipping >$80 CAD in Canada as well.

So you’re saying solar freakin benches is the answer???!!!‽

Might find this interesting, uses abs, there’s an example at the end of using one of the fdm printed lenses with lasers

I’ve tried with petg, was just for looks (transparent cases) rather than optical use, wasn’t super satisfied with it. Might try abs, it takes to acetone smoothing really nicely

I’m printing a bunch of these gameboy cartridge cases, replacing the batteries in all my partner’s old Pokémon games and then attempting to put a cover on them, no artist so relying on The cover project for those, meant for ds cases but it’s close enough.

And manuals (Thanks internet archive)

I did mine first as a test run, just need to do the rest.

I had an issue I caught early when I swapped my prusa from a Rambo to an skr mini, used the same power wires which didn’t have ferrules, I got “lucky” that the power supply shut itself down, one wire had worked itself a bit loose, enough to potentially arc.

I’ve replaced everything with new 14 awg wire with solid ferrules and I inspect semi regularly, I trust my crimps here but I don’t mess around with potential fire hazards. I think there’s a tendency to think, oh it’s low voltage, it’s fine, but there’s a lot of energy going through those wires, treat it with the same respect you would mains power. Take your time, double check everything, and invest in good crimping tools.

Jellyfin does support dlna as well

Honestly I just use my nas for that with a network mount on my machines. Have been using git though with freecad for source control on one of my projects.

Are you thinking of going something like a document management system or Library?

My voron with can toolhead, using a pt1000, I’d accept +/- a degree or so but that’s a bit more than that. Could trying calibrating the pullup value manually? I’m using Generic 3950 for the sensor types on the Semitec 100k thermistors (chamber temp and plate temp are both using one of those), had the best results with that personally, could see if that helps things.

Second hand though would help, wouldn’t be surprised if we see a bunch of mk3s and maybe even some mk4 with their new printer coming out. I still use my mk3s pretty frequently, made a bunch of mods to it, still chugs along.

I bought one of these Micro-Dehumidifier modules earlier this year I’ve been meaning to use in a dry-box I need to finish (got busy, forgot about it). Allegedly solid results without the need for desiccant and there’s an AMS mounting solution. They’re pricey but might be something to look at.

No problem, most games I’ve tried run without much fuss just with proton enabled. For others, protondb is great (pointed in the right direction to get Jade Empire running) or fiddling with settings yourself, gamescope helps a lot even if I’ve found it has some issues with nvidia cards (had games freeze with hdr for example), more of my issues are probably related to having an ultrawide tbh.

I ripped the bandaid off last month, there’s definitely fiddling and hdr is still in early days (works in gamescope, but found that can have issues with my nvidia card), I’ve been playing veilguard on proton ge for the last week, and proton experimental supports dlss frame gen now which is huge for me.

It’s definitely in the good enough state imo, and it seems to rapidly be getting better.

Afaik that’s how the corporate apps stuff works, I byod (I really should have a second phone) and the work stuff is totally on its own, uses a different keyboard, opens a different browser uses a different authenticator etc.